Things to see in Ozu

The old town lies on the south bank of the Hijikawa, about two kilometres from the JR station, with the castle at its western end and Garyu Sanso at its eastern end. Walking between the two through the storehouse lanes takes about 15 minutes.

01

Ozu Castle

The original keep was dismantled in 1888, but four of its turrets survived and are Important Cultural Properties. In 2004 the keep was rebuilt beside them in timber, guided by old photographs, plans and a surviving wooden model — one of the few castle reconstructions in Japan made the traditional way. Inside, the massive beams and steep stairs are the attraction; outside, the hilltop looks straight down on the river. On selected nights the keep becomes Japan’s most exclusive hotel room, with a costumed welcome and dinner in a turret.

Practical: About 9:00–17:00; around ¥550, or a combined ticket with Garyu Sanso for around ¥900. 20–25 minutes’ walk from Iyo-Ozu Station. Allow 45 minutes.

02

Garyu Sanso

A wealthy trader, Kawachi Torajiro, spent about ten years creating this retreat on a wooded cliff above a deep pool of the Hijikawa. The main house hides subtle carpentry in every room — moon-shaped openings, bat motifs, ceilings woven from different timbers — and at the far end of a moss garden the tiny Furo-an tea house hangs out over the river, its ceiling a curved raft of bamboo. It is small, quiet and one of the most refined buildings in Shikoku.

Practical: About 9:00–17:00; around ¥550. Remove shoes in the main house. 10 minutes’ walk east of Ohanahan-dori. Allow 45 minutes.

03

Ohanahan-dori & the old lanes

This straight street divided the merchant quarter from the samurai quarter, with a small water channel running along one side. It takes its name from a 1960s television drama filmed here. The lanes around it are lined with white-plastered storehouses, several now restored as shops, cafés and hotel rooms; on some Sundays a nostalgic open-air market sets up in one of the alleys.

Practical: Always open and free. The retro market runs on selected Sundays, mostly from spring to autumn — check dates locally.

04

Ozu Red Brick Hall

Built in 1901 as the Ozu Commercial Bank, this brick building with a Japanese tiled roof speaks of the prosperity that silk and wax brought to the town. It now houses a craft shop, a café and exhibition space, and makes a convenient rest stop between the castle and Garyu Sanso.

Practical: About 9:00–17:00; free entry.

05

Cormorant fishing on the Hijikawa

From June to September, fishermen in traditional dress work trained cormorants from a boat lit by a blazing brazier, while spectators drift alongside in roofed pleasure boats — closer to the birds than at most other cormorant-fishing rivers in Japan. Evening trips usually include a boxed dinner; there are also daytime sightseeing cruises.

Practical: Nightly in season, weather and river level permitting. Reservation required; expect several thousand yen per person with dinner.

Opening hours, closing days and admission fees change — especially around New Year, festivals and renovation works. Treat the details here as a guide and confirm on the official site before you set out.